Making Rivets using Jewellers Beading Tools

By Lance Whitford

additional input from Bob Wiber

My method is similar to the method expounded in Tony Greenland's Panzer modelling Master Class book, but negates the need for a hammer and a piece of vulcanised rubber to punch the rivets into.  I place a piece of lead foil over my finger and press the beading tool through the lead foil. This is not as painful as it may sound as very little pressure is required. The little rivets made this way have a nice domed form. I use a hobby knife position a few rivets on the model and then apply some liquid plastic cement with a fine pointed brush to dissolve the kit plastic. I prefer Tamiya's thin liquid cement which comes in a small bottle with a green cap that incorporates a good applicator brush. The rivets can be moved with the tip of a hobby knife before the glue dissolves if any adjustments need to me made to their position. The dissolved surface provides enough adhesion to keep the rivets in place. The beading tool set I use comes with ten different tools which enables a good range of rivet sizes to be modelled. More variety can be achieved by using varying thicknesses of lead foil. Naturally care must be taken when handling toxic substances like lead. Wash your hands well after finishing. I have found this technique can be quite quick once you get going.

Since the original draft of this article I have experimented with a number of variations of this method because not everyone will be able to readily obtain the beading tools I use. A good substitute that will be found in many modellers' toolboxes is the back end of a drill bit. A variety of rivet sizes is possible by selecting different diameter bits. The job is made easier by inserting the drill bit in a pin vise. I have even had success using round wooden tooth picks as punches. These can be improved by soaking the end in thin super glue to harden it. You can also sand the tip of a tooth pick to change the size of the rivet produced.

The picture on the right shows some of the rivets I replaced on my Fort T-37 A kit using the method explained above.

Rivets part deux

American modeller, Bob Wiber sent me the following information after he decided to try the above method. Bob has come up with some useful variations on the theme that are well worth trying. Thanks Bob

 The first thing I tried was a very thin sheet of brass on a rubber mallet. Using a small drill bit I was able to punch out 2 or 3 very nice rivets, which I was unable to remove from the rubber of the mallet....so much for that experiment.

Next I tried using some aluminum tape, and decided to try the finger method. The punch worked fine, and it hurt like heck. However, it did not go through the skin so I was able to retrieve the rivet. But I am not sure I would be very interested in doing very many rivets this way.

Next I dug up a small piece of lead foil from an old wine bottle, and after considering my last experiment decided against re-trying the finger method.  

I later decided that I would have to try a material I have laying around in moderate abundance. The method of using the drill bit and the leather coaster even works for styrene of moderate thickness, so I am fairly set for material. I haven't tried it on very thick styrene -- I think it was about 10 -20 thousands and the drill bit was 0.025 so it was moderately small. However, between the lead foil I do have, and the styrene I think I am all set to get myself covered with little circles of various materials. 

The "production facility" is shown in the  photo below. Although the rivets I made are a bit oversize for the area (the triangular gussets on the nose of the Marder IIIM in the bottom photo) that is an operator error and not a system bug. Be they oversize or not, the production and application was a breeze and made for a satisfying modeling experience.